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October is when I start thinking seriously about the new harvest, and the new season olive oil it brings.

Across Italy and the wider Mediterranean, producers are watching their groves closely. The olives are changing. Weather matters. Ripeness matters. Timing matters. Decisions made over a few days can shape the character of an oil for the whole year.

For anyone who wants to understand extra virgin olive oil properly, harvest is one of the best places to start.

Freshness is not a detail.

It is central to quality.

Olive oil is not made to age

One of the most important things to understand is that olive oil is not like wine.

Wine can become more complex with age. Olive oil does not work that way.

Once olive oil is made, it gradually begins to lose the freshness, aroma, bitterness and pepperiness that make it special. Exposure to light, heat and oxygen speeds this process up. Poor storage can make even a good oil fade before its time.

This is why a harvest date is so important.

A best-before date can be useful, but it does not tell the full story. A harvest date tells you when the oil began its life.

That is the date I want to know.

What freshness tastes like

Fresh olive oil should feel alive.

Depending on the olive variety, region and harvest timing, it may smell of fresh grass, tomato leaf, herbs, artichoke, green almond, citrus, ripe fruit or soft flowers. It may taste bitter, peppery, fruity, round or delicate.

Freshness is not one flavour.

It is a quality that runs through the oil.

A fresh oil has clarity. It has energy. It has a finish that feels clean rather than dull. Even a delicate oil should still feel present and expressive.

If an oil smells waxy, greasy, stale or like old nuts, it may be past its best.

How harvest timing changes olive oil flavour

The moment an olive is picked has a major influence on the oil.

Early-harvest oils are usually made from greener olives. They often produce less oil, which makes them more expensive to produce, but the flavour can be more intense. These oils may be more bitter, more peppery and more structured.

Later-harvest oils are made from riper olives. They often feel softer, rounder and more approachable, with gentler bitterness and riper fruit notes.

Neither style is automatically better.

What matters is whether the producer has made a clear, careful decision.

Good olive oil should feel intentional.

The role of the producer

Harvest is only the beginning.

Once olives are picked, they need to be handled quickly and carefully. Time, heat and oxygen are enemies of freshness. The best producers understand that quality can be lost at every stage, from grove to mill to storage.

This is why I care so much about the people behind the oils.

A beautiful grove is not enough. The producer needs discipline. The mill needs to be clean and precise. The oil needs to be stored properly before bottling.

Freshness is protected by human decisions.

Why new season olive oil is exciting

There is something special about tasting a new season oil.

It can feel vivid, green and almost electric. The bitterness may be more pronounced. The peppery finish may be stronger. The aromas can feel especially bright.

This is olive oil close to its source.

Not every oil needs to be this intense, and not every dish wants it, but new season oil is a reminder that EVOO is a seasonal agricultural product. It is not a static commodity.

It changes every year.

That is part of its beauty.

How to use fresh, bold oils

Fresh, early-harvest oils can be powerful.

They work beautifully with food that can meet them properly. Think tomatoes, beans, grilled vegetables, bitter greens, lamb, steak, lentils, roasted squash and aged cheese.

A bold oil can bring structure to rich dishes and contrast to sweet autumn ingredients.

It can also be extraordinary with bread and sea salt, where nothing hides the flavour.

If the oil is very peppery, start simply.

Taste it first. Then choose the food.

How to store olive oil and protect freshness at home

Once you bring a good oil into your kitchen, storage matters.

  • Keep it away from light.
  • Keep it away from heat.
  • Keep the cap tightly closed.
  • Avoid storing it next to the hob.
  • Do not decant it into clear glass.
  • Use it while it is still expressive.

A beautiful bottle deserves to be used well.

It should not be saved indefinitely for a special occasion. The special occasion is often the moment you open it.

My thoughts

Freshness is one of the great pleasures of extra virgin olive oil.

It is what makes an oil feel alive. It carries the harvest, the place, the olive variety and the producer’s decisions into the kitchen.

October is a good moment to remember that olive oil has a season.

Behind every bottle is a year of weather, work, risk and judgement. When you taste a fresh oil, you are tasting the result of all of that.

For me, that is what makes it so compelling.

Olive oil is not just stored in a bottle.

It is captured in a moment.